IntoxiKate creator Katie Schlientz with Chef Christian Petroni of Armonk’s Fortina.
{IntoxiKate Series}
There is a generation of chefs in their late 20s and 30s that are changing food in Westchester. These “outside-the-box” thinkers not only bring the nation’s culinary trends to the county, but they also set them, creating innovative dishes that catch the attention of foodies, their peers and Food Network producers (seen any familiar faces on Chopped lately?). They are the game changers.
Chef Christian Petroni, Fortina
“Listen, it’s like this. I’ve been driving a car my entire life. I know how to drive a car. I know how to use the brakes and the steering wheel. But then someone says to you, here are the keys to a Ferrari. Now I’m behind the wheel, and I think to myself, I know how to drive a car, but do I know how to drive a Ferrari?”
Turns out, he does.
We’re not talking in the literal sense, although something tells me if you handed Chef Christian Petroni the keys to the car, he’d be shredding rubber in the parking lots, doing donuts. And it would be shared on his restaurant’s Facebook, Twitter and Instagram pages.
But Chef Petroni is talking about opening his new Armonk restaurant, Fortina. He stepped out of the role of being just chef, and took on the role of part owner—creating his own concept, menu and interior design.
I first met Chef Petroni at the chef’s table at Barcelona Restaurant & Bar in Greenwich. It was just a few months after he’d been on Chopped. The restaurant was packed wall to wall with people. The chef was busy preparing food. It was a very upscale vibe.
Fast forward to our second meeting at Fortina. At 8 p.m. on a Thursday, the restaurant is crowded. People are waiting in the doorway, fingers crossed they’ll get a table soon. The chef is walking around, visiting each table, making sure all is okay. It’s an upscale vibe, but in a “we-don’t-take-ourselves-too-seriously” kind of way. Everyone—from diners to bartenders to waitstaff—is having a good time.
It’s a testament to the food, but it’s also a big representation for how Chef Petroni runs the show. At 29 years old, he gets it—he understands the many working parts it takes to create a successful restaurant. Fortina’s doors have only been open a little over a month, yet buzz was created on social media months in advance. (Smart marketing strategy yes, but the chef and his managers are just friends messing around via pictures, posts, hashtags and tweets.)
But it’s much more than great food and a buzz. It’s the vibe you get when you immediately walk in. You’re welcome. You’re a friend, a VIP even. And now, Chef Petroni is going to spoil you, Italian style. Let the food commence.
“I’ve learned that it’s not about me,” Chef Petroni says. “It’s about the food. And it’s about you [the diners].”
True story. Fortina’s website sets the tone—you won’t find Chef Pertoni’s picture or bio anywhere; just a menu and some great-looking pictures of food. (Stomach growls.)
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Fortina is much more than brick oven pizza. (Although, make sure you at least try one pie.) It’s about the menu items you may not be familiar with fresh ingredients, like the garbanzo beans served edamame style. You’ll get a little less bean for all your work, but you won’t be disappointed. The charred flavor and sea salt compliment the bean well. Another can’t miss item? The burrata (a homemade Italian cheese—think a cross between mozzarella and cream) is melted over toasted bread before topped with brown butter, arugula and peas. Best. Dish. Ever.
{Chef Petroni says: “When in doubt, add parmesan or brown butter.”}
{Fortina: 17 Maple Ave., Armonk, 914-273-0990, fortinapizza.com}
