{By Contributing Writer Jeanne Muchnick}
I’m going to be brutally honest. I don’t always love it when chefs have to put the word “celebrity” in front of their names. Sure, Chef Rafael Palomino has written five cookbooks and owns a small stable of restaurants (Sonora in Port Chester, Bistro Latino in Greenwich, Pacifico in New Haven) but why does every commercial on The Peak have to refer to him as “Celebrity Chef Rafael Palomino?”
After going to his newly opened eatery in Larchmont last week, I have to eat my words. That’s because for one, he’s revamped the old Pascal’s from a staid, formal, small space to an open, modern, airy one complete with white walls, beige overtones, dramatic lighting, and a flurry of paintings featuring palomino horses. The result is a welcoming, classically sophisticated ambiance that Larchmont sorely needed.
The second reason is because the food is really good—as in not like other places good. Chef Palomino manages to mix flavors with mouth-bursting, interesting combinations that wake up your taste buds and put your brain in “wow”mode. Here, the emphasis is on southwestern fusion with lots of farm to table ingredients as well as lots of time and effort into what harmonizes best.
I started with the Austin sweet corn shrimp tamale, served amidst a lemon grass corn chardonnay sauce and asparagus spears. It was sweet…but if you like corn and you like shrimp and you like the flavors of the Southwest, you’ll appreciate it. My husband had the Hudson Valley braised duck, which to him was perfect (I’m not a duck gal).
Though we both enjoyed our dishes, part of me wishes we had opted for the guacamole. It’s served in two sizes here and I saw many patrons gobbling it down. The dramatic presentation in a big bowl bursting with ripe avocado, red onions, tomato, cilantro and lime juice made me put a mental checklist in my mind for next time.
Paella was a must for me, as was the sangria. After all, both feature the Latino accent Chef Palomino is known for. The sangria is a big draw. There are five here, available by the glass or pitcher: Roja (red wine, orange and peach liquor and brandy), Blanca, (white wine, orange and peach liquor, brandy and mango puree), Cava (sparkling wine, orange and peach liquor and brandy), Granada-Pomegrante (rose wine range and pomegranate liquor and pomegranate puree) and Naranja de Pulpa, otherwise known as Blood Orange (white wine, orange, peach and blood orange liquor, brandy and blood orange puree). I tried both the pomegranate and red and found both refreshing without being overly sweet. (Come for Sunday brunch which features a $29.95 three-course price fixed menu with unlimited sangria and you can sample them all!)
My paella was perfect: An individual size that didn’t feel too big or too small. I liked that it is cooked in sofrito sauce in the exact pan that it is served in. I also found the seafood to rice ratio to be fair, as often times I’m served more rice than seafood.
Mark enjoyed the grilled branzino, served with homemade spinach-jalapeno gnocchi, garlic confit and cilantro sauce. Like everything here, there’s a nice flair to the food, turning an ordinary meal into something zestier and frankly, more fun.
Desserts are served with a bit of theater. A flourless chocolate cake comes with a cookie spoon and is light and fluffy and is tasty as it is gorgeous.
The flan ranks among my favorites with a nice consistency and the perfect balance of caramel and custard. It also comes with a nice cookie spoon and a strawberry on top.
I also enjoyed the funky mugs that accompanied our coffee and tea—“get noticed” saucers that are a modernistic conjoining of a mug and an oversized teacup.
All in all, a wonderful experience I will gladly repeat from a much lauded—and much-deserved—celebrity chef.
{IntoxiKate Tip!}
There is valet parking on the weekends; otherwise park in the Larchmont train station (after hours is fine).
{Palomino, 141 Chatsworth Ave, Larchmont, 914-630-7871, palominolarchmont.com}
